FOOD REVIEW: Derwentwater Arms, Lowside, Calver Bowled over by perfect Peak food with a view Malcolm and Mandy Drewery in the Derwentwater Arms at Calver, Derbyshire Published Date: 28 May 2009 By Derek Fish A PUB with a view always gets extra bonus points as far as I'm concerned and when it overlooks a cricket pitch at the front and Curbar Edge at the back then it instantly goes into the 'hard to beat' category. The Derwentwater Arms, perched high up in the Peak District village of Calver, is the place in question and having sampled the excellent food and drink on offer, the question remains, why has it taken me so long to discover it? It's certainly not about location – it's situated only a few hundred yards from Calver crossroads – much more that word is finally getting out that it's a pub worth visiting. Three years ago 'last orders' loomed, then Malcolm and Mandy Drewery happened to come across it and instantly saw the potential. After 15 years in the trade, the final three as managers of the Peacock at Owler Bar, they'd decided it was time to invest in their own place. The Derwentwater fitted the bill. Total redecoration followed, plus new lighting and, much to the delight of Malcolm the chef, a revamped kitchen. A number of steps lead up to the front entrance but there's a parking area at the back for the disabled and elderly. The 'cricket square' glass-fronted room seats around 20 and more tables are available in the lounge. Dogs are allowed in the bar area. It's taken time but they're finally beginning to reap the rewards of their labours, delivering freshly cooked quality food, cask ales and a balanced wine list. However Mandy, who combines front of house duties with waiting tables and pulling pints, doesn't lose sight of what they are: "We're a pub, not a fancy restaurant, but one that does good food." Couldn't have put it better myself… The majority of their produce is sourced from around the area – all the meat is supplied by a butcher from Stoney Middleton, while the fruit and veg comes from Dore, although the latter is supplemented by rhubarb and apples from their garden. Locals are also prone to leaving bags of plums, pears and rhubarb at the back door, which is one of the reasons why home-made desserts are available. Malcolm, who admits that he's 'still learning' when it comes to cooking, oversees the menu which is displayed on chalk boards and features a good mix of starters, mains and the all-important desserts. We declined the belly pork and orange salad (£5), English asparagus (£4.75), prawn spring rolls and chicken liver pate (both £4.25) for the twice baked sundried tomato souffle (£4.25) and the crabcakes (£4.75). The souffle, which was incredibly light and fluffy with a tasty smattering of sundried tomatoes, was served with a dressed green salad while the four small crabcakes were cooked in breadcrumbs, although their flavour was largely overpowered by the kick from the sweet chilli dip. Mains are diverse with four fish dishes (one a curry), a beef and Theakston ale pie, a lamb rump rossti and a lamb curry, duck breast, chicken breast, Derbyshire rump steak and three vegetarian options with prices ranging from £8.75 to £13. I went for one of the pub favourites, the haddock and chips (£10.75) although, on ordering, Mandy did ask if I was hungry and I soon discovered why. This was the veritable 'Catch of the Day', a king-sized haddock, flaky with good texture and encased in a light batter. It was laid across a hefty helping of hand-cut chips and a large portion of Malcolm's home-made mushy peas. M's duck breast (£12.50) was equally satisfying. Numerous tender slices – cooked pink, as stated on the board – were stacked around a portion of rosti potato which was topped with curried swede. It was served with a fest of fresh vegetables – mange tout, green beans, carrots, broccoli and red cabbage. Wines, eight red and eight white, plus two rose, a sparkling and a Champagne (£27.50) vary in price from £10.95 to around £20. Four whites and three reds are also sold by the glass. M settled for a glass of Aussie Chardonnay (£4.10) while I opted for a glass of Timothy Taylor's. Desserts (all £4.25) are a labour of love for Malcolm – he enjoys making them but he's not too bothered about eating them. If only… I could easily have sampled any of those on offer – chocolate brownie, sticky toffee, berry pavlova, treacle sponge and raspberry and white chocolate creme brulee – but the healthy sounding (!) rhubarb and apple crumble got the vote. It was a mega-sized individual portion crammed with rhubarb (from Mandy's garden) and apple with a fine crumble topping. A separate jug of freshly made custard completed the pudding heaven scenario. Now all I wanted to do was sit back and watch the cricket… z z z z z z z z z z z. Our food bill came to £41. Verdict: bowled over by food with a view. All you would want and more from a Peak pub – great food, real ale, fine wine, a friendly welcome and good service. Food served: Monday to Saturday, noon-2.00pm and 6.00pm-9pm; Sunday, noon-8.00pm. Derwentwater Arms, Lowside, Calver; telephone 01433 639211. QYPE REVIEWS 03.09.09 4 The Derwentwater Arms is set in the village of Calver. Having visited this place pre-qype days, and really liked the food and the atmosphere, we returned this summer to find that the quality is still just as good. The front entrance to the Derwentwater Arms is up some rather steep steps, which are punctuated by terraced areas with outside seating, perfect for a drink on a summer’s evening. There is also a disabled entrance at the back. The pub is divided into a substantial bar area, selling real ales and a good variety of wines, and two restaurant areas. One of which looks over the entrance steps to the village of Calver and the stunning countryside beyond. The food menu is found on two big chalk boards, featuring many local and seasonal dishes, including lots of seafood, fish and vegetarian dishes. Plumping for two distinctively different main courses, chicken with a brie and bacon stuffing, and sea bass with pak choi, the two of us found both meals very flavoursome and filling. The meal was accompanied with a good range of vegetables including courgettes and red cabbage, and buttered new potatoes. A good range of desserts as well, the homemade baked apple pie and the lemon tart were very tasty. A great meal, just as good as we had remembered. Best to book though, the Derwentwater is a popular place, people tend to come back again and again. Particularly busy from mid week onwards. Tags local, seasonal, great views, fish dishes, flavoursome, outside terraces helpful Mansfield Qyper How to get to Qype Ninja 29-06-2009 4 What a beautiful place for a pub restaurant?! Mandy and Malcolm Drewery have made this place something special with wonderful hospitality and fantastic food. Slow cooked pork belly, home made pates, perfectly cooked duck, three outstanding selections of fish…what a wonderful evening - and £40 including drinks! Go and tell them Pete and Sarah sent you!! You will need to book though - they were turning people away whilst we ate! Tags and, quality, value, outstanding